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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.